August 20-21
The leg following Stehekin was the toughest in terms of food: we'd been unable to resupply in Stevens Pass, and then Sabine's aunt's memorial service plus the anniversary of Sabine's mom's death thoroughly drained us emotionally, so that we lacked the energy to drive to the next biggest town to food shop. Fortunately, there were a few things in the hiker box, along with some English muffins that we were given from the hostel, a few ridiculously expensive things we'd purchased at the Granite Peaks Lodge shop, and protein bars we'd gotten from Steve and Mary (aka Stefan and Marion, who hail from the Mannheim area, who were taking a break due to Marion's foot problems and who had the leisure time to shop more cheaply later). Still, budgeting our food was very difficult because we had so little. Thus we supplemented our food with blueberries and salmonberries. A day before reaching Stehekin, however, we ran out of food. Then Olli spotted a food bag by the side of the road near a wooden signpost: filled with a complete menu of polenta and and vacuum-packed Spam! Either someone had forgotten it or consciously left it for the hungry. ;-) A gift: the trail provides.
That evening we had a real feast! Sabine fried up the Spam and served it on the polenta, which she'd cooked up with broth. It's been a long time since we had such a full pot.
At the trail head in Stehekin, we took the 9:15 a.m. Red Bus directly to the bakery (we'd been hiking the last kilometers since 6:30 a.m.), where we stuffed ourselves with delicious things like biscuits and gravy, their famous cinnamon rolls, coffee, pies and sandwiches. We were only able to reserve one night at the lodge (it was all booked), and we didn't feel like pitching our tent. Met old friends there: Snake Eyes from Germany, whom we'd interviewed at the beginning; she'd done the Sierras but was skipping northern California – which amused her – and was hugely looking forward to being home. Sisters Ivy and Jazz from Wales with doll Daryl, Femke from the Netherlands, Pippi Longhair, Dan and DJ. Great conversations also with Mr. Clean from Vietnam and his hiker pal Ranger (trail name), who gave us some of her food. Dan and DJ gave us all of their leftovers, because they were quitting in Stehekin. Interviewing Steve was a highlight; he'd hiked the PCT 40 years earlier. The biggest change, he observed, was in the weight of the gear – and the spirit with which one set off.
After a refreshing dip in the lake (17 degrees Celsius!), we spent part of the evening on their cabin veranda, imbibing gin, rum, red wine, and olives, before they headed off to bed and we headed off to the restaurant where we had a reservation. Dan knew the lodge manager (former colleague) and got a loan of her car – to tootle along the street between bakery, The Garden and the harbor. Next day we tootled along too, stopping at the bakery, where we toasted DJ's birthday and ate cake. Stopped by The Garden, an organic vegetable and fruit garden run by Karl Gaskill over the past 40 years. Bought goat cheese, fruit, and a yoghurt. Sue and Norman, who'd worked in Stuttgart at the Robinson Barracks (dentist and nurse), had recommended The Garden to us. Anyone who lives and works in Stehekin does it out of conviction. Like Meagan, whom we'd met just before Stehekin on her 3-day loop and who works in the bakery. She'd discovered the town during her PCT hike in 2016 and now lives and works here.
Since the internet wasn't working for guests, Sabine – after persuasive arguments – was finally allowed to use the government computer in the Golden West Visitor Center to download her mails re her aunt's memorial service. She could therefore send her messages in time; the service was to be held on Sept. 6 at noon, Berlin time. Plenty of time to get into the net. The visitor center tip came from ranger Barbara Schwarz, whom we'd met the day before. She'd grown up in Switzerland, near Thun, learned the baking trade, and was now a ranger in the wilderness here. She carried the "Health Coach" in her pocket. Here in the USA, she continues to bake her own bread. She also told us that Sobo Bubble had passed through here three weeks ago; a week ago, it had been a lot more crowded, likely on account of many of the flippers who'd been unprepared for Washington's challenging ascents and who’d quit after suffering injuries.
The tiny post office was managed by Jonathan, who on account of his eyepatch is called Pirate. He lives in the same tiny building and listens to jazz all day. Unfortunately, our Amazon packages with the new SD cards hadn't arrived. It was impossible to investigate, because there was no internet. We were able to clarify that in Winthrop.
Dan and DJ dropped off Sabine at the trail head ab and Olli drove back with them, because Jonathan from the post office had promised to look for the package with the SD cards: new mail bags had been delivered via ship ... Olli took the Red Bus to the trail head in the evening – Dan had had to return the car again – but without the package.
Our backpacks now filled to the brim with food, we headed off. Thanks to Dan and DJ! And the chock full hiker boxes there.
Photos: Link