September 2-7, days 156-161
PCT kilometers: 1,127; kilometers hiked: 2,642
Arrived in Kennedy Meadows South, the gateway to the Sierra Nevada on the evening of September 4. But, to recap:
In Bakersfield we had a wonderful stay at Franziska’s. Because of the Labor Day holiday, we would have had to delay our official entry into Walker Pass by 2 days. Franziska was kind enough to drive us in her car (an hour and a half one way). We resuppled at Aldi (!), which in fact was a lot cheaper than usual. We saw several products we recognized from Germany, but with English labels. We were finally able to print out our ESTAs at a gas station (Franziska no longer had a printer and most places were closed for the holiday). Arrived at Walker pass around midnight, where we'd flipped months before to Ashland, OR. It was an emotional farewell. In the warm evening air, we decided to cowboy camp, had a bite to eat, and slept deeply.
We had more than 80 kilometers ahead of us to Kennedy Meadows, the last section of desert before the Sierra Nevada begins. And it was hot! We weren't used to that after Washington, where it was much cooler and the trail mostly goes through shadowy woods. Now we had up to 40 degrees Celsius, with full packs and tough ascents. It was tough, we had to get used to it all over again; the first two days we only managed about 20 km. On the third day, we needed to cover 44 km, because we'd calculated three days to hike this section. We were at our limit, but in the end we hiked a record – the longest leg in a single day (the previous record was 40 km on May 21).
In Grumpy Bear's Retreat we picked up our mountain boots, which we'd sent ahead from San Diego and which were waiting for us. Fortified ourselves (with very tasty Grumpy Burgers, local beer and milkshakes, breakfast burritos, pizza, ice cream), then interviewed Grumpy, whose real name is Scott.
On the night of September 6, 3 a.m. local time, Sabine sat on Grumpy Bear's Retreat's veranda and celebrated her aunt's memorial service in absentia. Brother Hans-Georg was doing the same in Australia. Sister Jutta and our daughter Zarah were in Berlin, where Zarah read Sabine’s eulogy, which Sabine had written on the leg to Stehekin.
Today, September 6, after a shower, food, and resupplying at the Triple Crown Outfitters (for gear and food), we're going to pick up bear canisters (which is required in the Sierras for storing food) before heading off. More kilos in the backpack. The "Sierra" adventure begins – for most hikers the high point of the PCT. At the moment, weather conditions are supposed to be good, but we need to finish by the end of September, before the first snows come. No one wants to be in the Sierras then ...
We plan to do the first leg without the usual stop-off in Lone Pine, covering the 200 km to Bishop. On this leg, Forester Pass will also be the highest point on the PCT (altitude over 4,000 meters).
Our slowness in all things turned out to be fortuitous once more, because Pavel from Russia turned up. We'd interviewed him at Olallie Lake; he was a very early southbounder, who'd done the Sierra and gave us another interview. Now we finally got the story on why he'd hiked the long PCT for his deceased father, and why he'd climbed the highest mountain in his home for his deceased mother, to be closer to her. His father had been a humble and hard-working man, who had never been outside of his homeland Russia, had never seen anything of the world. That's what Pavel was now doing by hiking the PCT. We were able to repay him for the cash he'd given us at Olallie Lake by buying him internet time because he'd had difficulties paying online.
It feels really great – this unexpected giving and receiving of help when it's needed.
Another crowd of hikers arrived, heading northbound through the Sierra. So we aren't the last ones after all ...
Scott's Son Chandler drove us, along with two other hikers, took us to the General Store at the upper part of Kennedy Meadows. The other hikers were picking up a resupply package; we needed bread (Triple Crown Outfitters didn't have any). Also, we wanted to sign the trail register there. Early in June, our pride had prevented us from signing then, since we'd arrived in Kennedy Meadows bia Uber, rather than on foot. ;-) Headed back to the retreat and had a meal. Sabine also packed up her mountain boots, which she's having sent ahead, because after wearing them for a day, she decided against wearing them. Olli’s taking both pairs of shoes.
For the time being, this entry will be the last extensive one. We hope to send a brief sign of life from Bishop.
We hope you'll check in again later – more blogs will follow in October ... and then there's the film, of course...!
Note from your trusty translator: The break is a two-edged sword! On the one side, I need a rest from translating. On the other, I'll worry about SWOH, not hearing a peep for weeks. I'm sure you, dear readers, will share my hopes that Sabine and Olli will be fine and stay safe during their Sierra adventure!
Photos from September 2-6: Link