May 24, day 56, km 852
Distance to Kennedy Meadows, gateway to the Sierras: 228 km
The day began sunny, with pancakes again. We packed up our stuff, organized a few things on the computer – Sabine was able to use housekeeper Bob's – and waited for Richard, whose interview didn't happen yesterday.
Ultimately, we didn't leave until around 6 pm, after deciding to have a burger. A shuttle magically appeared by the roadside, which took us to the coffee shop at Wee Vill Market. So we were able to test the competition (Café Neenach belongs to Hikertown.) The driver, Victor, explained a few things about the region, including his theory on why the Joshua trees are much smaller in the large curve where the PCT and Highway 138 meet. He speculates that the soil was washed away just there during an earlier ice age. We love these kinds of stories and theories. He and his wife had previously worked at the KOA campground where we’d done our shopping and Sabine experienced a trail magic nearby when we hung out at Sonny-the-Swede's trailer. As hikers so aptly say, "The Trail provides": whatever is needed will appear – be it help, a resupply, hiker boxes, or trail angels. And of course the same is true for all those who profit from the generous hikers.
Had a burger in the café, bought a few things, interviewed owners Terrie and chef Maria (who received accolages from Casa de Luna’s “who'sch your Daddy”), and found out that, unfortunately, Monday is Memorial Day, a federal holiday commemorating those who died while in the service of the United States Armed Forces. Which means the Mojave PO is closed! To avoid staying another night in Mojave, we phoned our motel and asked if they would be willing to pick up our packages on Saturday. Normally closed on Saturday, the PO is open then because of the holiday (a tip from a friend of Maria's who happens to be a mailman. Thumbs up from the motel.
Then we headed into the desert. Pleasant temperatures in the evening. The trail runs parallel to the Los Angeles Aqueduct for about 18 km, in three dead-straight sections. First the aqueduct is above ground, then in a pipe, and later underground. You walk along a concrete road, more or less. Very impressive! Built between 1908 and 1913, the aqueduct conveys water for a distance of 370 kilometers from Owens Valley in the Sierra Nevada to Los Angeles 370 kilmoter.
Hiked a lot longer than usual. Around 9:30 pm, in the middle of nowhere, we met a group of young men, adherents of the Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter Day Saints (Mormons). Most of them were around 20 years old. They were on an skeet shooting trip over Memorial Day weekend. They invited us to share their campfire, offering us soft drinks and S'mores. (Note from the translator: ya'll probably don't need an explanation for S'mores!) One of the guys, Russell (nicknamed Rusty), had German roots – his ancestors came from Pomerania, which is part of Poland today – and was delighted to speak a bit of German with us, though he himself has never been to Germany. He had a good knowledge of history and conversed with Sabine about a few topics relating to WWII. After more than an hour by the campfire, eating S’mores, barbecued chewy candies, and Gatorade, we took our leave. About an hour later we found a nice, flat spot for our tent – one of the advantages of the desert ;-)
Pictures